5508D1A and Fluorescent lamps

Firstly, thanks to those you have answered my previous posts - great help esp. as I am new to cbus.

In the manual for the 5508D1A it says it can be used with Fluorescent lighting. It says "fluorescent lamps may be switched but not dimmed. For each channel connected to a fluorescent load, set the minimum Turn On level to 100% using the C-Bus Toolkit software. A Power Factor Correction (PFC) capacitor must be fitted".

I have two fluorescent strip lamps in my garage and intended to connect them to one channel on the dimmer. However, my electrician looked vague when I asked him about the PFC.

How do you determine what PFC is required?

Clipsal obviously allow connection of fluorescents to this unit, but searching the forum suggests people have had issues. Should I consider using a relay instead?

 

I believe it refers to a power factor capacitor being present...fluros over 15 Watts must have power factor correction capacitors fitted before they can be sold into the Aus. market (we don't know where you are, might be a good time to update your info so better help can be oferred in the future ) It is saying check that one is fitted.

I would switch your fluro(s) with relays if possible.

Cheers

 

I tested a small 7W CF with a dimmer. The problem I had was that the dimmer has a small leakage current which makes the thing flicker even when off. I did a search on the forum and everyone else had the same problem. I am in the process of switching to relays.

Ingo

 

I have a paroblem with a new dimmable CFL. Its made by varilight and works perfectly on a standard dimmer.

However, when I connect it to my dimmer module, a 4 channel with power supply, it works perfectly for a while then the dimmer unit cuts all the outputs but remains active on the switches. So whilst my DLT still shows what is going on, the dimmers down switch the outputs. If I turn it all off and leave it for a couple of minutes, it will then power back up and work fine for about a minute.

I am wondering if i need a PFC on this, would be strange as its an electronically control lamp unit so should be isolated from direct supply to ballast equipment.

Any ideas?

 

its a 5504D2A

Im not convinced its a problem with the CFL now though. I have had the fault repeat on standard GU10 50W halogens so it may be a fault on the dimmer itself.

However, and this is the odd bit. I have now had the unit running for about 20hours with no fault, and thats with a CFL dimmed to 25%, so I know the dimmer unit is doing its thing.

Oddness all round.

 

Using phase control on CFL's that are not designed for use with phase control dimmers is bad news. Sometimes they work a bit over a limited dimming range but the CFL's tend to have a drastically shorter life when dimmed.

The GU10's are electrically similar to CFL's so the same problem is likely to appear.

Thousands of lines have been spilled on this topic on this forum so i'll just cover a couple salient points.

1. CFL's in general should not be connected to dimmer channels. A couple of manufacturers have created special phase controllable dimmable CFL's but to date they're not very good.
2. The C-Bus Dimmers can switch regular tube fluorescent ballast fittings on and off provided that there is a power factor correction capacitor fitted. The PFC functions to shunt the small amount of current that trickles through the dimmer channel in the off state (due to EMC capacitor) past the ballast so that the starter doesn't try and start the tube.
3. When the manual says "compatible with fluorescent lighting" it is referring specifically to conventional ballasted fittings.

 

Well not too sure which dimmable CFL's you have used, the ones I am using are very new to market, like in the last few weeks. I have had them on test on standard dimmers for a while with no issue. Indeed, they also seem to be working fine with my 5504. I think the issue I am having is a red herring.

The house I have just moved into has very dodgy wiring, eg six circuits going into one breaker so god knows what else in the rest of the place. I have noticed some issues with my wireless equipment too so I have been running an analysis of the mains supply, its pretty transient to say the least. My monitor is showing around 100 variances in a day, and I have set it pretty loose. This is all being caused on the consumer side not rec. Im going to sort the wiring in the house and whilst I have everything disconnected I will test against a good feed.

My guess is the supply is causing issues with the CBus kit.

Dont write off the dimmable CFL just yet

Thanks for the help

Simon

 

Can't stand the heat? Keep out of the microwave

Amber,
It sounds like the DIN dimmer is over heating and the thermal cut out is shuting the unit down then when it has cooled the unit resumes working,
What other loads do you have connected to the other channels and do any of them exceen the 2A max rating per channel?

 

Its a test rig, each channel has a single 50W mains halogen so nowhere near the limit. I have found that if I allow the unit to self reset it will then run with no problems. It is exhibiting the behaviour of thermal cutout but its odd that it only does it once, when the rig is first switched on and then never again, in addition the unit is not at all warm to the touch, perhaps its a dodgy sensor but that would mean it happens all the time.