Help Dimmer channel won't go off

Just rewired the dimmer unit (progressively firing up Cbus) and added two more channels (now six) andnchannel six which is a fan will not turn off at all!
I've tried resetting the unit, rebooting CBUS, recscanning everything and can't get it turn off.
This channel wasn't previously used but the fan was on and has been running fine.
Am I looking at a shorted channel? or is something special about channels 6,7,8 on the dimmers????

Indicator is off and fan is on turn it on and fan stays on.

Any clues?

About to change over to a different channel to see what happens.

 

When you say that the fan is always on, does it change speed when you actually turn the dimmer channel on? I.e. does the fan run at maximum speed the whole time, regardless of whether the channel is on or off?

The dimmer channels have EMC bypass capacitors fitted across them. This means that a very small amount of energy is trickling through the load, even when the channel is off. If the fan is small, this might be enough to make it turn slowly.

What is connected to the other channels? Are they regular incandescent light bulbs that dim just fine or are they something else?

Moving the fan wiring to another channel would be a good test to see if that dimmer channel has a hardware fault.

 

I thought we arn't suppose to try to use non-dimmable load on a dimmer channel...?

Years ago my colleague tried to use some external relay and see if the small current would trigger the contact. If not, the motor would be fine if we add that relay in-between....I forgot the outcome because we were told that we would not have warranty if we did that....

 

If it is a leading edge or uni unit will accepy very small inductive loads like a sweeping fan etc (however they may hum). And a leading edge dimmer is designed for inductive loads. Uni dimmer would be better thoough due to the hard start options and channel protection built in.

If the motor is a bit large and it is a leading edge dimmer you could have killed the triac....motors draw 6-10 timer the full load current on start up. If this initial draw is to much the triac may have failed in the 'on' state, the fan would be running full on though.

 

Thanks for the replys

The fan connected is only a standard sweep fan.

I swapped it over to a different channel and works fine again. So phone call to Clipsal tomorrow. We'll see how that goes as it was part of the course Kit.
Anyway all seems to be good now except that channel.

Fan was running flat out weather the channel was on or off.
Other channels have another fan and 2 downlights per channel. So not overloading it at all.

While I have your attention what is the best way to terminate multiple CBUS cables in or near the switchboard? I've seen Scotch locks used and didn't really like that way. I should only have three into one but just like things to be neat.

Also is there a minimum size of installation to get checked for Cbus installers accreditation thingy? i.e. Can it just be my house? (36 channels or there abouts)

Thanks again

Derek

 

Contact Clipsal/Schneider in your local state/country for the Approved Installer Program info.

Also a couple of ways to join the cables if there is multiple cables is to bring them all to the closest switch and join there and run one back to the DB. If this isn't prractable you can crimp RJ45 on each and use a pin-pin double adaptor. Some electrical/data suppliers carry them. These are basically a strip connector for RJ45's. This unit can then be cable tied to the dinrail or similar to secure the connections.

 

Approved Installer

Hi OldSkool,

I don't believe there is a requirement in regards to specific quantities of hardware. As long as you've built a network of a half decent size and can show that you know how to program it, you should be fine.

However one thing I am sure of, is that your own house does not count towards the 3 accredited sites you need to become an Approved Installer. At least that's how it has been in the past.

Just in case thats changed though, contact your local Clipsal rep asap, as they like to see the site at various stages of the build, not just the finished product.

Best Regards,

Cramer

 

Thanks for the heads up Cramer
I'vehopefully got the Clipsal Rep coming around to replace the dimmer so will pick his head when he does.

Looks like I will need to find someone to get CBUS in their house then.

 

I use DIN rail terminal blocks like these:

http://au.farnell.com/wieland-electric/56-703-0053-0/standard-terminal-block/dp/1055881