Issues with NEO switches

Discussion in 'C-Bus Wired Hardware' started by RossW, Jul 30, 2006.

  1. RossW

    RossW

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    Well, my replacement NEO switches turned up on friday (thanks guys). A couple of critical observations for Clipsal, one which is also a question for the group!

    1. My home is constructed from concrete blocks (like the "besser blocks" many will be familiar with: 400x200x140 thick or 400x200x200 for outside walls) with conventional plasterboard direct-stuck to the blockwork. She who must be obeyed, preferred the "Euro" style NEO switches (almost square format, unlike the aussie ones which are rectangular). There were, at the time at least, no mounting options suitable for this construction, so we had a hundred metal plates lasercut to the template supplied by clipsal. These were attached to the blockwork with green plugs and screws before the plaster went up. The first batch of switches went in no problems - but the next lot, some bright spark had changed the mounting and they now ONLY mount by the two centre screws - there are no holes in the corners. Unfortunately, we cut the steel to the template which had the 4 corner screw holes and the surround where the centre holes WOULD have been is completely cut out!

    The replacement switches, sadly, are the same. Anyone know why? It's going to be a real pain if I ever put new switches in some of the places we put wall plates "just in case" for future use - because we can't actually mount the switches there!

    2. I vary the level of the indicator LEDs depending on several things, including light level, time of day, and for certain things, for status indication. (for example, certain units lights flash bright and dim to tell me when the generator is running). This "flash" mode alternates between the half-way point and the current setpoint (bright or dim) - so it's always visible, but never overbearing.

    Obviously, there has been some change in the code on the new revision switches - because while the old ones work perfectly bright/mid/dim, the new ones appear to bright and mid ok, but dim is *OFF*

    Is there a work-around for this in the key units themselves? I already have two sets of LED_STATUS groups - one that flashes, one that tracks, I really don't fancy having to add two more each time there is a difference in switch code! (From memory, I'm using nominally 10%/55%/100%)
     
    RossW, Jul 30, 2006
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  2. RossW

    wanricky

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    It is interesting and I am still imagining how it looks.

    Simply try to increase the lowest level from 10% to 35% or 40% and see if it looks ok.

    I think they just fixed a bug in the old NEO's indicator. There was never 10% or 0% in real. The LED brightness stays at 40 or 50% to me nomatterwhat level you tell it to dim under the 50% barrier. This is a problem for switches in bedroom.

    With 40% or something around, the brightness level of old and new switch should look similar, or you can try with two switches side by side and compare with different level. The old switch level definitly wouldn't fall below a barrier even if you want it 10%.
     
    wanricky, Jul 31, 2006
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  3. RossW

    RossW

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    It actually works really well. Most of the switches just dim with the light level so they're never really "out of place". When it's bright, they're bright enough to see easily. When it's dark, they're not like bloomin' searchlights!

    Selected units - ones that are positioned so I can see at least one of them from most places I'm likely to be - flash a little above (or below) the default level when certain events I need to know about are happening. It's a slow flash - 10 seconds bright, 10 seconds dim - enough to see if you're looking, but not generally enough to distract you if you arn't.


    Perfect! Thankyou. That probably explains why 50% for "midway" never looked quite right! I'll give it a go, but sounds like a workable solution.
     
    RossW, Jul 31, 2006
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