Using ferrels to terminate cables

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by fleetz, Nov 30, 2006.

  1. fleetz

    fleetz

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    Who uses ferrels to terminate Clipsal C-Bus Cat5? Are they worth the effort? Which ones do you use?

    Thanks in advance,

    Regards,

    Fleetz
     
    fleetz, Nov 30, 2006
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  2. fleetz

    znelbok

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    I will be using them for my next job. I have found that the grey (1.5mm2) will work best. They allow you to use from a single cable up to three cables in the one ferrule.

    You can buy two or three different ones if you like, but to cut down the cost I will just be using the grey ones.

    This also means you can use them on the 240V wiring as well if you wanted a tidy look.

    The brans I am using is Carrol - but the colours should be the same as they are standardized, but there is a German or European variation.

    Mick
     
    znelbok, Nov 30, 2006
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  3. fleetz

    ICS-GS

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    We use them ALL THE TIME, they are fantastic. Better than worring about if you have broken a stand when you twist them togeother. For the cost they are well worth it. We stock all sizes depending on how many cables need terminating. Just make sure you get a GOOD crimper also.:D

    Cheers

    Grant
     
    ICS-GS, Dec 1, 2006
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  4. fleetz

    Frank Mc Alinden

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    The brans I am using is Carrol - but the colours should be the same as they are standardized, but there is a German or European variation.

    Mick it would appear that is not the case....Any ferrules i have used Grey is the 2.5mm2 ferrules (single ferrule)...Black is 1.5mm2......red 1.0mm2.....blue .75mm2 .....and white .5mm2..........

    HTH
    Frank
     
    Frank Mc Alinden, Dec 1, 2006
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  5. fleetz

    Mr Mark

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    I would have to agree with Grant. Using the correct strippers, ferrules and crimpers gives peace of mind. Less problems in the future if someone comes along and changes key input or overtightens the terminals.
    We use the CABAC crimper ( Part number HNKE9 ) that crimps 'square' not flat if you know what I mean.

    Mark :)
     
    Mr Mark, Dec 2, 2006
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  6. fleetz

    znelbok

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    Yeah I got it wrong (bad memory - got the colour I was using right though), Grey is 2.5, black 1.5 etc. etc.

    Anyway from my testing, the 1.5 will take two cables, the 2.5 will take up to three cables (maybe even four).
     
    znelbok, Dec 2, 2006
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  7. fleetz

    fleetz

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    THanks guys appreciated. Where do you buy your Carrol 1.5mm grey ferrules from? Also the chrimp tool best price location.

    Regards,

    Fleetz
     
    fleetz, Dec 4, 2006
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  8. fleetz

    Ashley W

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    I recently brought a ferrule kit and a crimp tool from Farnell. Not the cheapest of places but very good quality crimp tool.

    With the crimp tool don't scrimp or do bogies (like using pliers) to save money. A good quality tool will pay for itself in most instances but with these ferrules a proper tool is the only way to go.
     
    Ashley W, Dec 5, 2006
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  9. fleetz

    Frank Mc Alinden

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    Hi Fleetz

    You should be able to purchase small quantitiys (100 off) of BLACK ferrules (1.5mm2) from any wholesalers ..eg L+H Middys etc........
    As for a crimper...one of the ones im using is a Weidmuller Red line Crimper which does up to 4.0mm2..........i think it cost around $60.00.......
    Ferrules can cost from $7.00...up to $13.00 ...per 100 depending on where you source them from......

    HTH
    Frank
     
    Frank Mc Alinden, Dec 6, 2006
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  10. fleetz

    tobex

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    I did a job once with C-Bus (original version) with 98 modules. I terminated every power cable with a ferrule and I crimped every Cat 5 with a ferrule and I junctioned every common point (10 cables in one place) with a Krone COMMON BLOCK and my punch down tool.

    The non-Clipsal boys thought I would be there for months but behold it was done in record time and surprisingly not one high resistance join and not one failed module.

    Termination to the highest specification is the only assurance of the quality of the network.

    Krone Australia has photos for reference as I even went overboard and use the 400V Terminator to common and junction the 240V wires. I was able to use a DIN box to mount the Krone hardware between the C-Bus modules and ran short wires from the Krone to the C-Bus input and outputs.

    I also use a breaker for every dimmer module and these fit nicely alongside the Krone blocks (Cat5 and 400V versions). When it is time to isolate a fault I only need to bring down one module instead of the whole building.

    If you are very fussy then you will have a much faster install and fewer problems.

    Now that Clipsal uses RJ45 connectors there is far less to junction in the COMMON blocks but those items are extremely useful and only cost a few dollars.

    The cat5 block I used is a telco part where one half is common and the other half is common. It is rated for use in a phone exchange so it will last in a C-bus install.

    After 6 years only one module was replaced and no loose connections or drop-outs. Burden is active due to the very low resistance with 98 modules and over 750m cable.


    Crimp tools / ferrules also work perfectly in alarm panels too as do the Krone blocks.
     
    tobex, Dec 7, 2006
    #10
  11. fleetz

    2SC

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    can you upload some photos here too?
     
    2SC, Dec 8, 2006
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  12. fleetz

    Phoneman

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    Ferrule Pics

    Some Pics would be of your install would be great for us non sparky types.
     
    Phoneman, Dec 8, 2006
    #12
  13. fleetz

    tobex

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    I dont know who the question was asked to but I will show some of my previous work next time I am in that house. I didnt have a digital camera in 2000 and I have not taken any past photos. I will come back later and show my past efforts.

    The house is by the ocean and sealed connections are very handy. Most people are not aware that when you punch a cable into an IDC slot connector (such as a Krone block) the actual connection is air sealed.

    I did the same for Cat 5 as I did for 240V. I notice that Krone Terminator (400V20A) for 240V work is not that popular but I know that it saves bulk labour. Krone cat5 and Cat6 easily handles the 2A limit of the data C-Bus network.

    I ran lengths of cable up to 40m from inside to pool house and have not had any connection failures despite using a direct connection to the house C-Bus rather than using a LAN bridge method. My impedance is sufficient that I still run a burden with 98 modules installed.

    :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 13, 2006
    tobex, Dec 13, 2006
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  14. fleetz

    Phoneman

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    Look forward to pics

    Tobex,

    Look forward to seeing the pics buddy.

    Maybe a new Discussion topic could be opened where pic coulds be uploaded showing installs to be proud of?

    What was that one online? PalmLodge? Incredible work!
     
    Phoneman, Dec 15, 2006
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  15. fleetz

    Leigh

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    While I can see the many advantages of ferrules, one big disadvantage would be when trying to track down a fault.

    It could be a useful to isolate the various segments of the cable network.

    With ferrules it would require cutting off the ferrule (with loss of cable length) and then replacing them.

    Is this a problem or am I missing something?

    Could the members who use ferrules regularly please comment.
     
    Leigh, Dec 18, 2006
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  16. fleetz

    ICS-GS

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    undoing ferrules

    Well sometimes you can gently "massage" the ferrules undone with a pair of pliers. Yes shortening the length may be an issue, but as a ferrule is only 8mm long. I would think it was a bit of a worry if this was the case.
     
    ICS-GS, Dec 18, 2006
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  17. fleetz

    BSS

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    Using ferrules has both its advantages and disadvantages depending on how you wire your premises. In 95 % of my jobs I wire evey switch back on its own cable and junction at the CDP in krone. If I need to isolate the line for what ever the reason then I do that in the krone with plastic isolators and it does not affect any other switch that way. I never need to cut ferrules off at the switch end then. In the case where the cables were specified to be looped due to cost considerations, I always leave at least 600mm of extra cable in the cavaties for the purpose of redoing the cable termination if it has been pulled apart for any reason. You would only lose 30mm at most. you would have to be re-doing the termination constantly to use up all of the spare cable.
    I have no preference for or against ferrules. Poorly fitted and crimped ferrules using the wrong tools to install can render the network useless and intermittant. I have seen cables fall out of ferrules because they were not sized and installed correctly as well as broken cables in ferrules due to over crushing . Everyone to there own method and what works for them.
     
    BSS, Dec 18, 2006
    #17
  18. fleetz

    Beerygaz

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    Please tell me more about the Krone common blocks. I have a problem where I have 5 or 6 Cat5 cables coming into my central location (Node 0) and not enough C-Bus modules to terminate them all. This means I need to connect a bunch together and then run a single RJ45 into the C-Bus module. I've been looking for the best solution and "chocolate block" terminators seem very messy. I thought Krone block was a 1 to 1 connection rather than 1 to many or common?

    Thanks.
     
    Beerygaz, Jan 7, 2007
    #18
  19. fleetz

    johnl

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    johnl, Jan 9, 2007
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  20. fleetz

    tobex

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    Krone offers a block which holds 40 wire pairs and it is two common halves. It is a special version of the generic termination strip for joining phone wires. It is available at all electrical wholesalers.

    Now that I am back from Germany I will present some photos.
     
    tobex, Jan 14, 2007
    #20
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